The Astromaid Chronicles

Slow Travel, Creative Living, and Speculation

House Hunting in Cusco

On Wednesday, we arrived to Cusco with over 100 lbs of STUFF on our collective backs. Jorge’s new employer set us up with a little hotel room while we hunted houses, and we set to scouring the hills of Cusco. Slowly and carefully, of course, because the altitude does a number on us.

Our experience in Potosi, Bolivia showed us quite painfully that we are two people that are sensitive to altitude sickness, and over-doing it in any manner makes you feel like you have either the flu or a raunchy hangover. Or both.

It’s anyone’s guess who will suffer from altitude sickness. Physical fitness doesn’t have much to do with it — it either hits you or it doesn’t. Luckily, it goes away in a couple days. Or, it doesn’t, and then you have to descend the mountain immediately. That’s probably only like, when you’re on the tippy top of Mount Everest, though.

By Saturday, we had scored a new apartment in the heart of historic Cusco. We have apartment-hunting and house-acquiring down to a science by now. All told, we saw 5 different places. I took some pictures to share with you, so you could get an idea of what the regular accommodations are like for ex-pats and wanderers in general.

After two full days of visits and phone calls and trekking around Cusco, it felt like an episode of House Hunters International. Without the one million dollar budget, that is. Or the camera crew or the pending mortgage.

OPTION ONE: This was higher up into the hills than we liked, right on the fringe of what I would consider the ‘safe’ part. The outer part was messy and in the throes of construction, but once inside the apartment, it was completely restored and lovely.

Extremely narrow kitchen. I can feel the 
dinnertime cooking frustration already.

However, the only windows overlooked a shared central patio, which was full of old Peruvian women hanging laundry, and every manner of junk thrown around.

Lovely decoration, but the location and vicinity didn’t convince us.

Option Two was an actual house in the historic center of Cusco. However, it was woefully dreary and closed in. An advertised “shared patio” (which led to salacious fantasies of having an asado on Sunday) turned out to be an enclosed arboretum of sorts, lit by a very strange green glass roof, which lent a very odd ethereal tinge to everything. We passed.
Option Three was on the upper fringe of Cusco again but closer to the safer part. The walk to get there, though, reminded me of Valparaiso in the bad way. Add in altitude sickness and Jorge and I had a heart-pounding, chest-wheezing helluva time getting there.
Smallish bedroom.

The kitchen.

The landlord was lovely and the apartment came with the use of the rooftop terrace. That had us racing to see what was up there, and the view was honestly spectacular. 
The rooftop terrace view!

However, the entire place smelled like gerbils, and the place itself just didn’t convince us. I couldn’t imagine living in gerbil smell for six months, not even with that view as a bonus.
Our fourth option was an extremely overpriced hotel room. It wasn’t advertised as such, but it was literally just a hotel suite that I suppose somebody had bought and was operating as an independent condominium of sorts. It had the dreaded interior windows I’ve come to loathe, two very tiny bedrooms, and a cramped living room/kitchen area. It didn’t even have the room to lay down my yoga mat. So we moved on.

Option Five ended up being the winner. And what a winner it is! It was actually the second place we visited of the five, early on Friday morning, and by 5pm that night we made our decision and trucked our bags over the same day.

The lovely kitchen!

Though not seen here, the place has three skylights: one in the living room
here, one in our bedroom, and one in the bathroom. It’s always sunny and bright! 
Except for at night, of course.

The location is perfect — just steps away from my yoga studio, all manner of restaurants and shops surround the place, a laundromat is across the street, and I just noticed today that a vegan restaurant sits conveniently right next door. Awesome. 
The door to our new place! Inside, there’s a terrace and multiple little apartments. 

And we even have a view from outside our front door! 
Can’t complain.

Our Peruvian House Hunters: Cusco edition went as smoothly as one could hope for, and we are having a lovely time settling into the new digs. My first task: buy a desk. And a blender. And then life will be quite grand.

2 Comments

  1. Oh gosh! I thought I had it bad when it came to house hunting for our current home, but you guys are just super human. Hahahaha! I also think that option five is the best, although the views on the roof deck of option three are absolutely spectacular. I hope you guys are settling in quite nicely. Thanks for sharing!

    Myron Payne @ Finlay Brewer

  2. Thank you for reading, Myron! We have settled into option five very nicely, though I still sometimes pine for the rooftop terrace option! Oh well, can't have it all!

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